
Both female and male soft-shell turtles eat crayfish,
snails, frogs, fish, and even baby ducks. They spend most of their time in the
waters of lakes, ponds, and ditches. This drawing shows you the shape of a
soft-shelled turtle’s shell. It does not go all the way to the edge of his
pancake shape. That’s why his shell seems so soft. Captive adults over 8 inches
diameter can be fed low protein, low fat dog food and all chicken must be
cooked.

Soft
shells are very shy around humans, and often will not come out much when any are
around. Food intake must be monitored by looking to see that food offered
disappears and that faeces appear regularly. When kept in a home they should be
in a low traffic, low noise area. Like most aquatic turtles, soft shells must be
able to haul themselves out of the water onto a warm and dry basking area.
Basking temperatures of 85 F (warmer for the Florida soft shells) are required
during the day. Water temperatures can range from 70-80 degrees. Basking heat
should be provided by an overhead incandescent light.
All turtle enclosures should be
cleaned weekly by draining out 100% of the water, partially refilling and
scrubbing the decorations and sides, draining again and refilling. Always
thoroughly wash hands and cleaning utensils afterwards.


Red Eared/Painted Terrapin Care
Source:
http://tetra-fish.com/fauna/redearslider.aspx
Some text may classify these in genus Trachemys or
Pseudemys and many subspecies or regional color variations exist.
Closely related aquatic turtles, both growing up to 16" in
shell length although typical adults are 10" - 12". The shell of the Red Ear
Slider is primarily a medium to dark green with mosaic stripes or highlights of
yellow and black. The head and body are similarly colored, while the plastron or
underbelly is primarily yellow with black markings. Patterns and markings are
highly variable among individuals. The most identifiable feature and basis for
its common name is a pair of red stripes on either side of the head just behind
the eyes. The Painted Turtle is similar looking but darker and less ornate and
lacking the red ear stripes. To compensate for having a much drabber shell, the
body has red stripes and highlights especially on the legs. Juveniles of both
species tend to be brighter with individuals becoming darker and colors faded
with age. Sex can be readily determined on individuals over 6" in length as
males develop elongated front claws which can grow longer than the digits
themselves. Many geographical subspecies and color variants exist within this
group of turtles, so absolute identification may require a pictorial guide, but
fortunately care is essentially the same for all varieties.
Captive Breeding Status:
Both species have been bred in captivity. However, in the United States it is
illegal to sell turtles under a 4" shell length except for scientific or
educational purposes due to a 1970's salmonella prevention law, so very few of
the individuals offered for sale are captive bred as the economics to raise
these is not competitive with the supply of wild caught specimens. In some
southern states, most notably Louisiana, both of these species are farmed by the
millions for sale in countries outside of the US for pets and human food
consumption.
Native Range/Habitat:
Both of these species and their many relatives are native to North America,
especially the MidWest region, Mississippi River basin, and the SouthEast United
States. Although habitat encroachment by humans has reduced some regional
populations, they are still frequent residents of most permanent lakes, rivers
and streams. While populations cross and can be mixed in the same water body,
Painted turtles are more common in the northern portion of the range with
Sliders becoming more popular in the southern states. They are both hibernating
species taking refuge when temperatures fall below 60ºF.
Diet/Feeding:
Both species in nature are primary carnivores feeding off of worms, insects,
snails, small fish, and crayfish. They are very opportunistic however, and will
also consume carrion and some vegetation. In captivity, they will readily feed
on commercial diets such as Tetra ReptoMin along with occasional treats of
earthworms, insects or feeder/bait fish. Easier, cheaper and safer than live
food treats are Tetra's line of ReptoTreat foods including sun-dried whole
Gammarus shrimps, Delica Bloodworms, and krill-enriched Suprema food sticks.
Hamburger, hotdogs and other human foods should be avoided as they are typically
high in fat and poorly digested. One key note to their feeding - both species
can only swallow underwater as is needed to "wash" the food down the throat.
They may occasionally take food on dry land, but immediately retreat to the
water to consume it. It is therefore very important that they be kept in water
deep enough to completely submerge themselves.
Housing:
Although Red Ear and Painted turtles are commonly referred to as "aquatic" a
better term would be basking or semi-aquatic as these turtles spend much of
their time out of the water basking in the sun. In captivity they will require a
set up that allows them the same. The most common housing consists of a
traditional aquarium, although some unique houses have been built out of wading
pools, water troughs, old bathtubs or any other container capable of holding
water. The size of the housing should not be smaller than 30" x 12" at the base
in order to create adequate land and water sections. The water section should be
at least 4" deep. For hygiene it is highly recommended to use a filter and
various options exist, but since turtles create a fairly high waste load, a
power filter is recommended over under gravel or sponge type units. The easiest
to service and maintain is a power filter that hangs on the side of the
aquarium, as the cartridges can be exchanged easily and without dismantling the
entire unit. A submersible aquarium heater is also recommended. To prevent or
minimize damage potential to a glass tube heater, a sleeve of slotted plastic
tubing can be fitted over the heater body - it is important though to maintain
water flow and thermal venting. Wire mesh can also be used. A dry or basking
area needs to be provided which will allow the turtle to completely exit the
water. The easiest solution is a natural rock pile (slate works very well)
although crevices in the rock allow detritus to accumulate and this will require
periodic cleaning. A natural log piece also works, but will become saturated and
sink over time and bark will soften and clog filters if not removed prior to
usage. Probably the best option is a ceramic or poly-resin ornament designed for
aquarium or terrarium usage. They are easy to clean and are nearly
indestructible. Depending on the height of the housing walls a lid or screen may
not be necessary are turtles are very poor climbers, but these devices also
serve to keep other pets out of the cage and often have built in lighting.
Turtles require full spectrum lighting with UV-B wavelengths to properly utilize
calcium a critical element to proper shell and bone development. Fluorescent
bulbs for this use are available in many sizes and different fixtures at your
local pet shop. All turtle enclosures should be cleaned weekly by draining out
100% of the water, partially refilling and scrubbing the decorations and sides,
draining again and refilling. Always thoroughly wash hands and cleaning utensils
afterwards.
General Comments:
Both Painted Turtles and Red Ear Sliders are easy to care for pets. In some
climates they can be kept outdoors in the summer but caution needs to be
exercised that shade is available especially in glass enclosures. Although age
of wild caught specimens can not be readily determined, it is not unusual for
captive specimens to live over 10 yrs.